Travelling to Bubaque in the Bijagós Islands - a guide for touring cyclists

We decided to celebrate our first year on the road by visiting the Bijagós islands, off Guinea-Bissau. These are accessible via a ferry that runs from Bissau to the port on the main island of Bubaque. After initially considering leaving most for our stuff in Bissau we ended up deciding to take our bikes and gear with us to give us maximum flexibility to explore. This decision had its pros and cons, which we wanted to cover here.

Out - BISSAU TO BUBAQUE

Tickets

At the time of writing, the ferry leaves Bissau on Friday and Tuesday, returning from Bubaque on Sunday and Wednesday. We wanted to be prepared so we were looking to purchase our tickets the day before. On the Thursday, we asked around at the port in Bissau to suss out where to get tickets. We were sent to an unsignposted office on the corner of Rua Osvaldo Vieira and Rua Vitorino Costa (next to Hotel Malaika) where tickets were available for 2,500CFA, 5,000CFA, 7,000CFA or 9,000CFA. Ticket vendors encouraged us to not purchase the cheapest tickets so we opted for the 7,000CFA ones not knowing exactly what that meant. We would also need to pay for the transit of the bikes but didn’t know where to do this. We returned to the port to ask. Someone beckoned us in to a building and upstairs, where we entered the office of the ship’s captain. He made us very welcome and kindly spoke English too. So, we could ask about our bikes, which he told us was just a case of paying when asked for tickets for their transit. We thanked him and said we’d see him onboard tomorrow.

Tickets were also available from the office at the port entrance on Avenida do 3 de Agosto. Tickets appeared to be available on the day but maybe that’s because we are in the off-season. We were told the boat is very busy during the season (November to May).

Boarding

We had been told to arrive at least an hour before departure but we decided to arrive super early in an attempt to avoid any rush. As we approached, we could see the ship, the Centenario de Amilcar Cabral, in the dock. We made our way to it past the inconveniently placed piles of rusty scrap metal.

Having wheeled our bikes to the passenger loading ramp, we were swamped by people who were keen to get us loaded. First we had to pay for the bikes as cargo which were 4,000CFA for two bicycles. We handed the money over and were given a proper receipt.

Despite being hours early, everyone seemed in a rush. We unloaded our bikes and our luggage was swiftly moved to where we would be seated by a group of guys. Simultaneously, our bikes were lifted and carried on. My heart sank when I realised they were insisting on taking them all the way to the front of the ship, down and up two really steep sets of metal stairs to an area with all manner of tat loaded on already…and more to follow. A couple of the guys were suggesting the bikes should be loaded at the end we got on, and where our seats were, which I was encouraging, but they got overruled by a senior figure. I suspect anyone who uses a bike as we do would be a bit nervous about them being moved this way and I was keen to try make sure they were safe once up there.

In the end, some of the staff came to ask for some money for the loading. We could’ve refused their help but it was kind of them, so we obliged. I wonder if we’d have been allowed to keep our bikes nearer if we’d paid the senior member of staff a little for the privilege. Anyway, we were where we were. We took our seats and I got up periodically to check how things were looking at the front.

Seating

The ticket prices varied based on the seating locations and we’re not 100% sure which applies to which. The cheapest tickets seemed to mean laying on the floor next to the engine room. Then there were the basic tickets meaning a seat (or standing space) in the belly of the boat with scant view of the sea or sky and absolutely rammed with people and cargo. You are close to the bar and the food though, and the music was pounding for the whole trip. I enjoyed the time I spent down there but I also liked heading back to my more chilled seat. The other tickets related to different seated areas on the ship, the next was at the bottom rear of the boat with assigned, numbered seats. The next option (the one we chose) was above this cheaper option with (slightly shonky) air conditioning and views to the side and rear of the boat. The most expensive option was slightly higher again with views to the front and sides.

As time passed, the ship started to really fill up with people and cargo. Everything came onboard, livestock, people, motorcycles, produce, construction materials - everything an island might need. There were a few tourists like us too. Even some handheld livestock appeared down the stairs.

At this stage I was out on deck a lot of the time, keeping an eye on the bikes but I also found time for a bit of field recording. Even when it was only this full, it was rather raucous.

As more and more cargo got loaded up front, it was obvious that I needed to go and take a closer look. By the time I chose to, it was almost impossible to get through the crowds. I wore my broadest smile and clambered over stuff and through the throngs to finally get up on the front. This was now also rammed with people, including a guy moving large bits of rebar and other sharp metal stuff around our bikes. As he did so, one guy who spoke English urged me to move the bikes. I could see his point and did so. I also moved a few bits around in the hope that the bikes wouldn’t get damaged, but I wasn’t super confident. To be fair, at this stage, cosmetic damage to the bikes is no biggie. They are a bit battle scarred and as long as they are ridable, I’m cool with it. I was mainly trying to avoid stuff like drivetrain or brake rotor damage. At some point, I decided I’d head back to my seat and what would be would be.

The journey

The journey took over five hours. The wind wasn’t favourable, which slowed us down. It was pretty hot but as you can freely walk around the boat you could always get some air. As mentioned before, there was a bar which you could squeeze through the chaos to. We were on the boat for about seven hours (including waiting to set off) so got some refreshments. Each time I went down, it was more and more animated. I had a little boogie. Alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages were available as well as sandwiches and hot food, and sometimes people walked around selling biscuits or snacks.

Toilet facilities

There are toilets on the ship. Basic toilets. They have a kind of flush mechanism but eventually the water runs out from the supply tanks and this seems to stop. There is a sink but not always running water (tank supply) and no soap or toilet paper. The sea was a bit rough on the way out, which had the predicted effect on the toilets. It was much calmer on the return journey, so the toilets were in pretty good order even towards the end of the crossing.

Disembarkation

As we arrived at the port, it was covered in people waiting for the boat to arrive. The quay is relatively small for the huge amount of people arriving so the military officers were very strict about how offloading was going to take place. I had made my way through the throngs one last time and befriended a few folk at the front. More boogying ensued.

Once I got to the bikes, they were covered in spilt drinks and more worryingly, a heavy box of tomatoes had been leaning on my drive belt. I don’t know how long for but I’d have to wait and see if it had any ill effects. There were a few other scars, like some marks made by some sharp metal pieces on the sidewall of Beck’s front tyre but overall, I was quite hopeful.

With a little assistance, I was able to carry one of the bikes down the steep steps and across the metal walkway onto the harbour side. I wasn't allowed to put it where I planned to (close to the ship), so I put the cafe lock on and chatted with the friends I had danced with a bit before. They kindly said they would look after it, which I had to trust, but when I turned around to go back to get Beck’s bike, the guard wouldn’t allow me back on. I must’ve looked a bit stressed out by this because loads of people ended up shouting at the guard to let me back on. He did so and I managed to get Beck’s bike off and over to mine. It was a hectic and mildly stressful few minutes but we’re getting more into the flow of things here now.

Then I was looking for Beck. Like a trooper, she appeared with one load of luggage which she brought over to me and the bikes. She met my new friends briefly. I had texted her to say they wouldn’t let me back on so she spoke with the officers and knew she could get back on to collect the rest of the luggage (in two loads, which is a tough ask!) but had to wait until there was a gap in the people leaving the ship.

It was dark when we finally left the harbour and headed off to our accommodation but our bikes seemed to be working without issue, so that was a win.

Looking at it now, the most stressful bits were the unknowns when lots of helping hands descended on us at Bissau port and we didn’t feel we had control of where the bikes were going. Secondly there was a ‘rush’ to leave the ship where we probably had time to get our stuff together. Once on the island, we used the bikes a lot and it was nice to have access to all our gear too. We even used the bikes and tent when exploring a neighbouring island (more on that soon), so, on balance, I think it was worth taking them for how long we were staying. If we’d only been going for a quick visit, I’d have avoided the stress of potential damage by leaving the bikes somewhere in Bissau.

Back - BUBAQUE TO BISSAU

Tickets

We purchased our tickets the day before at the port in Bubaque. We went for the 7,000CFA priced tickets again. These were purchased from the port office which was a blue building very near the port with a big tree in the courtyard and an anchor painted on the wall.

On the day of the ferry there was quite a long queue for tickets but the journey back was much much quieter on the boat.

Boarding

Boarding seemed a breeze this time. A military guy checking the tickets invited us to walk the bikes onto the boat and gestured that he would watch our luggage whilst we loaded everything. Initially they wanted the bikes at the front of the ship (like they were on the way over) but we could see a motorbike on the deck and asked to put the bikes on the deck on the opposite side. There would be less risk of damage from other cargo here. I am not sure I got full approval for this but I went for it anyway and kept an eye on them until we set off in case anyone objected. We spoke with some other friends who did the crossing with bikes and they said they just insisted on moving their own bikes on the return journey. In our case, we didn’t have anyone even try to help, which left us much more in control. A much more relaxing experience.

Seating

Unlike the way over, the ship was less than half full so there was plenty of space in our seating area for people to move about. Beck had quite a long sleep—on some rather uncomfortable plastic chairs—as she wasn’t feeling well the night before. There was more space for moving about the ship/getting to the bar too.

The journey

Very calm and straightforward with beautiful views of the islands. Little wildlife was seen apart from a jumping fish or three. I didn’t even head down to the bar, so I don’t know if there was any dancing. I know it was Friday evening when we crossed to Bubaque but the people here seem to be up for dancing most of the time.

Unloading

Due to how quiet the ship was, this was really straightforward. I carried one bike off and put it in sight on the harbour whilst Beck carried off some of the luggage. We both then very easily returned to collect the other bike and the rest of the gear without any hassle.

Once unloaded, we were approached by a harbour guy who charged us the 4,000CFA for two bicycles and gave us a receipt.

We then left very calmly and cycled off into Bissau. Phew!