Revisiting and reframing

Sometimes in life stuff happens that causes you to reflect on how you have developed. Maybe you've been learning a language and you meet a native speaker for the first time, or you encounter someone you went to school with and exchange life stories. In a small way, we've both had cause for such reflections lately, simply due to revisiting places we have been before on this tour and reflecting on how our feelings have changed since we were last here.

I often say that you could cycle two routes a mile or two apart and have wholly different experiences. I'm now wondering if this is actually possible when covering exactly the same ground. Though, I must admit, we haven't cycled that much lately, but we have found ourselves in two places we have been before, and this has resulted in some time for Beck and I to reflect on our travels.

We are currently back in the small village (town?) just on the Moroccan side of the border with Mauritania. It's exactly as windy here as we remember and we are glad with our decision to try to hitch a lift with a truck (tomorrow) back north. 1500km into this wind doesn't appeal so much (but Chapeau to the—mainly solo women—riders we have encountered that have taken up this challenge)...

This place has seen a good deal of development since we were last here. The approach road looks to be getting new kerbs and pavements throughout and there seem to be new hotels popping up too. What's immediately apparent when travelling from the south is how much more developed this side is when compared to the Mauritanian side. Also, packs of stray dogs and cats are back. So are tagines and that tea (though Mauritanian tea slaps too). We are also really enjoying eating and hanging out at the cafe bar next to the border, a place that we had some reservations about eating at last time we were here. Our tolerance for social situations and food hygiene standards that we wouldn't have encountered in the UK has definitely shifted.

We've also realised that we've (mostly) learnt to let go of control. After spending ten days with a friend and driver in Mauritania not knowing where we were going, eating or sleeping we thought that we handled it quite well! That said, we're looking forward to getting back on our bikes and enjoying our own company as we cycle through northern Morocco.

Add to this, our second visit to the auberge in Mauritania that we stayed at just before crossing the border and I think our conversion to more open-minded, seasoned travellers is getting there. I remember how I felt about the toilets, the food, and the conditions the last time we stayed there. They've also made an improvement or three during the time we have been away but it's still interesting to see how our dial has shifted. It bodes well as we head back into more expensive territory over the coming months. Fingers crossed for a nice lorry driver for us to hitch with tomorrow!