Old road, new views

Sam always says that every ride we do is different. Even if we were travelling along a parallel road we would see something totally different. This has come true too for our return journey along the same road.

Having ridden down through Morocco and Western Sahara and then into the desert of Mauritania, our decision to get a lift back up feels like the right one.

Every time we left the hotel in Guerguerat for food or to check out the lorry situation the strong, cool wind made the temperature bearable but our eyes were soon filled with sand and even walking took significant effort.

Setting off northwards into the desert we were treated to an elevated view from the cab of the truck. This meant we could see new things that we had missed from our bikes. Larger dune systems, the Atlantic hitting the Moroccan coast and rock formations in the distance. Of course we were simultaneously missing much of the detail and the visceral intensity.

Some things were new. Kerbing and roadworks at the border making for a more orderly (and safe the police said) approach. A water tower under construction had been completed and new petrol stations (even more) seemed to be popping up.

Our driver Mohammed introduced us to a ‘Camion douche’ where he and other drivers bathed in a hot spring beside the road. A refreshing stop in the late afternoon after a day of driving and border crossings.

The change in season also brought new experiences and south of Ahkfennir many hundreds of tents were pitched up on the coast, none of which were there previously. Our driver explained that they were the people from the Sahara who had come to seek relief from the scorching temperatures of the desert. They would return when the weather got cooler again. The canvas Khaimas and fabric structures gave the settlement quite a transient feel which we found reminiscent of images we’d see of camps of displaced people. We imagine it might be like a gathering of Traveller/Romany people in the UK coming together, sharing stories and news.

Following quite a stint in Guinea-Bissau, Senegal and Mauritania, we’ve definitely relaxed with regard to food hygiene and accommodation standards. As we pass through Moroccan towns (including Guerguerat) we’re no longer so sniffy about cafés, eateries or toilets. On average, Morocco is an improvement in this regard from places further south, and being more comfortable in this day-to-day business is quite a relief.

What we also can’t get over, having seen in from the lorry perspective, is how mad the journey we made was. When riding, we just aimed for a new place each night, taking it day by day, but doing it all in one big go with hours passing where the view barely changes, I can’t quite believe that we actually did it! Travelling along this return journey has shown it in another light and we’re proud of how we managed to do it.

We have enjoyed a long sleep in Agadir and are ready for the next stage. We can’t wait to get back on the bikes and ride into our first hills for months…