Away from it all

After time in Newcastle and a train journey to Inverness, we were eager to get back on the bikes and hit the ‘road’. Ahead of us was a mostly off-road route to Durness along the Pictish Trail and then the Great North Trail to explore bits of Scotland we’d never been to.

The trip of around 240km from Inverness to Durness would take us 4-5 days. Setting out from Inverness after dinner at a food hall, we were both very tired and hotly debated whether sleeping beside a golf course would be acceptable ‘wild camping’. Despite being really fatigued from Long Covid I was sure that I wouldn’t sleep well with a chance of being disturbed by golf managers or dog walkers. Instead, we reluctantly made it (slowly) up out of the city to the Great Glen Way. Really, we would have preferred to not have to do this climb but stopping beside the track in a birch woodland, surrounded by birds and fungi was exactly what we needed. It felt a far cry from the busy-ness of Newcastle and the stresses of getting bikes on trains.

This section of the Great Glen Way was fantastic with some wider track and single track snaking through the broadleaves and evergreen forests. Storm Floris had left its mark and there were broken branches and trees down beside and across the trail. Eventually we reached smaller lanes leading us towards the Beauly Firth.

At Strathpeffer we rested beside a sweet shop where we met Heather and Kev who gave us some top tips about the upcoming route (including muddy sections and a good bothy) and very kindly offered their place to stay. We were humbled by their generous offer but we planned to get some more kilometres in, so soon after meeting, we thanked them, and continued on our way. Stopping at Beauly for lunch, my Long Covid was giving me a bit of trouble after it had made an appearance the day before. Sam cooked us lunch at the square in Beauly before we decided to cut our day short and head to the nearest campsite for some rest. We were also anxious that we hadn’t planned the next few days in any more detail than having an idea of the overall distance, but also knowing that it would be very remote. In the laundry room of the campsite we studied the maps to locate the refuelling options and possible wild camping spots on our route.

More in-the-know, the next morning we were up and ready to head to Dingwall. This was an important refuelling stop for us before we properly headed into the mountains. We knew that there were very few options for food (some hotels & cafes that might be serving food) and no shops, so we bought 3-4 days’ worth of supplies. With my reduced set up, Sam was left carrying it all…

Finally, in preparation, we ate a large Thai dinner just to get us going and fill us with food for the evening ahead - out of Dingwall, to Evanton, then into the hills. Singing and music filled the air as we started a little climb, only to then be invited to a 60th birthday party in the community woods just outside the village. Reluctantly, we declined knowing we needed to get some more distance in.

Up into the hills, the camp spot was a grassy area just off a lane above a stream. We had managed to grab some water from a tap beside a building site so we were all set for the evening. After a wash in the stream, grouse calls and the sound of running water soothed us to sleep. A significant cloud of midges greeted us in the morning and we took to wandering around the nearby lane whilst eating cereal to try and avoid the biters.

As Kev had rightly warned us the day before, the track beside Lake Morie was boggy and we got wet feet. Most of it could be ridden but some bits were muddy, slippy and deep so it was slow going. Upon reaching the estate pile of Kildermorie a gravel track reappeared taking us up the glen for a second breakfast beside another Loch, then down to Croick for lunch. We stopped beside the church where there were names engraved in the windows of the church by those fearing for their lives, fleeing the Highland Clearances to make way for sheep farming. It was difficult not to notice the juxtaposition of these two signs beside us…

Up on the mountain track, the midges were awful and we dare not stop for more than a few seconds to open a gate or check a pannier but again, great riding along tracks and trails including some more technical single track which was so much better riding with my lighter luggage. I was able to ride more and enjoy it too!

Heather and Kev had told us about the Old Schoolhouse Bothy and we had thought of making our way there for the night. As we cycled along a technical trail on the approach, we saw cars parked outside it. We love chatting to people as we travel but also like our own company, and on a Bank Holiday weekend we made the decision to turn back and head to Oykel Bridge to find another place to spend the night.

Stopping off for a drink in the friendly Oykel Bridge Hotel, we filled up with water and asked about wild camping spots. The river banks were suggested so a short cycle onwards would mean we found somewhere suitable. We had an important toilet stop at the hotel too as facilities/shops were non-existent (meaning wild toileting throughout!). A lovely spot beside the River Oykel in the company of some nearby cows and midges was our wild camp for this night.

Awakening to a misty morning was magical and midge-filled. We quickly scoffed some bread in the tent before packing up as fast as possible and headed up the road to Achness Waterfall for a second breakfast away from the midges. Up Glen Cassley was easy riding on a slightly uphill but rolling lane in the sunshine until we got to the power stations.

Then it was seriously up and steep (climbing 200m in 2km). Sam rode it all like a trouper but I was pushing from early on, still suffering some symptoms of Long Covid. A few drivers shouted encouragement as we made our way to the top for lunch.

Energised from good hot food and a fantastic descent we were stopped by a huge gate at the end of the lane. The main road gate was locked with a padlock and beside it was a weird, 6 foot high kissing gate. After unloading and trying to get Sam’s bike through the side gate we heard an approaching car from behind and asked if they would kindly let us through. I’m not sure what we would have done if we hadn’t crossed paths. It would have been a long and difficult struggle to get through here or a very difficult lift over a tall deer fence. The Cycling UK guidebook gives a brief mention of a ‘difficult gate’ but didn’t give it quite the prominence it perhaps should have, especially if you were a lone cyclists with a substantial touring bike… I have emailed them to ask for clarification on this!

Thankful that we had made it through the barrier it was a brilliant journey along a little lane through the glen before turning up a steep gravel track. Up here was where we knew we wanted to wild camp and we were grateful for the breeze that blew the midges away. Another wash in a loch and a refill of water using our filter set us up for the evening. We even arrived sooner than expected so relaxed and enjoyed the views of the mountains around us.

Blessed with another day of good weather, setting off was easy and we hoped that this was the day we made it to Durness. It was also the day that we knew we had to ford a river. From the start of the day, Ben Hope was in view and it turned out that this would remain in our view for the rest of the ride.

Cycling over Strathmore, with its easy descent, quiet roads and ruins of a Broch, progress was fast. A track left the lane with narrow wheel-ruts and a tall grassy middle. This unfortunately tipped Sam off as his back wheel slipped. Thankfully it was a slow-ish topple but snapped a pannier clip in the process. A quick roadside fix with a reusable cable tie sorted it right out and we were able to tackle the ford! Sam scoped it out first by walking over and carrying some of the more precious items of his recording kit which sit lower on his front rack. Then, we were ready to cross the river. Although it felt deep on our legs, the water was nowhere near our drive system, hub gears or brakes so it was a nice and easy crossing.

A gravel track snaked up the hillside and we passed through one of many fenced off areas we’d seen over the days, signposted as exclusion zones for deer to allow the natural regeneration of woodland on the mountain slopes. Clearly the thousands and thousands of pounds of fencing was funded by the EU as indicated by the blue and yellow-starred flag accompanying the information. Despite this, the top gate looks like it had been left open for a long while. We closed it :)

Lunch on another mountain top meant that it was breezy enough to keep the midges at bay as we looked down upon Loch Eriboll, with the end almost in sight. Getting to this point also meant that we were quite close to a café, the first in 3 days, and we were pleased as we had pretty much eaten everything we had brought. The café did not disappoint and we ate our fill at Choraidh Croft Café at Laid whilst the clouds rolled in and the rain came down. It was good fun chatting with the lady who ran the café and learning a bit more about the area, ahead of our stay. We couldn’t dodge the rain any longer and set off along the NC500 route to Durness. This was the wettest we had been since we set off on the 12th June so we should be grateful, but the mixture of motorhome and other vehicle traffic (that we hadn’t seen for days) and driving rain on a narrow road was not so fun. Sam made a few choice gestures. But, we made it to the campsite where we were greeted by friendly campsite hosts, ate vegan chicken strips and chips for tea and rested up in the pub.

Having spent a few days here, relaxing by the sea and planning the next part of the trip, tomorrow we head southwards towards Ullapool. Due to the good weather and the riding being smooth sailing, our 3-day adventure over the mountains was really enjoyable - despite the midges. The wilderness really brings the home comforts (like a shower) into sharp focus! In fact, this ebb and flow is what we really like about cycle touring. It makes us appreciate the small things in life. The beaches are stunning here and we’ve been catching up on admin before hitting the road once more to explore another part of Scotland.